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What can football really tell us about Germany, the Euro 2024 hosts?

What can football really tell us about Germany, the Euro 2024 hosts

What can football really tell us about Germany, the Euro 2024 hosts?

This summer, the eyes of football fans worldwide will turn to Germany as it hosts Euro 2024.

For many, the country seems familiar territory: a footballing behemoth with clubs as famous as its beer and its cars. But, if you look closer, the beautiful game can offer a deeper understanding of Europe’s powerhouse.

So, what can football really tell us about Europe’s powerhouse? Let’s find out.

Modern Germany

modern germany federal states map mob

Leipzig

Saxony

Leipzig

Cities: Leipzig

Football teams:
RB Leipzig (red, white)
1. FC Lokomotive Leipzig (yellow, blue)
BSG Chemie Leipzig (green, white)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
Red Bull Arena (RB Leipzig)

Euro 2024 fixtures in Leipzig:
18/06: Portugal vs Czechia (20:00 BST)
21/06: Netherlands vs France (20:00 BST)
24/06: Croatia vs Italy (20:00 BST)
02/07: Round of 16 – 1D vs 2F (20:00 BST)

About:
Leipzig is the birthplace of the German FA and one of the most important towns in the country’s history.

Yet today, the eastern city is the most hated place in German football. While nouveau-riche RB Leipzig are seen by many fans as a threat to the game’s culture and traditions, grand old East German clubs like Lokomotive and Chemie are struggling to stay alive in the lower leagues.

In the city of Bach, Wagner and Goethe, the beautiful game is a matter of life and death. And three decades after German reunification, Leipzig’s football culture war exposes the deep divides which still run between the former East and the former West.

leipzig

The Rhineland

North Rhine-Westpahlia

Cities: Köln (Cologne), Düsseldorf, Mönchengladbach

Football teams:
1. FC Köln (white, red)
Fortuna Düsseldorf (red, white)
Borussia Mönchengladbach (black, white, green)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
RheinEnergieStadion (1. FC Köln)
Düsseldorf Arena (Fortuna Düsseldorf)

Euro 2024 fixtures in Cologne:
15/06: Hungary vs Switzerland (14:00 BST)
19/06: Scotland vs Switzerland (20:00 BST)
22/06: Belgium vs Romania (20:00 BST)
25/06: England vs Slovenia (20:00 BST)
30/06: Round of 16 – 1B vs 3A/D/E/F (20:00 BST)

Fixtures in Düsseldorf:
17/06: Austria vs France (20:00 BST)
21/06: Slovakia vs Ukraine (14:00 BST)
24/06: Albania vs Spain (20:00 BST)
01/07: Round of 16 – 2D vs 2E (17:00 BST)
06/07: Quarter-final (17:00 BST)

About:
On the banks of the Rhine, people don’t take life too seriously. Cities like Cologne and Düsseldorf lie in the heart of carnival country, and their football clubs are known for wacky seasonal shirts, beloved billy-goat mascots and calamitous on-field fortunes.

But the Rhineland is also a place of power. Home to the biggest Catholic Church in Europe, it is also where the West German state and modern democratic Germany were forged after the Second World War.

Clubs like 1. FC Köln, Fortuna Düsseldorf and Borussia Mönchengladbach may have lost some of their old grandeur, but their enduring cultural clout still speaks of a country whose foundations lie in the west, far from the current capital Berlin.

The Ruhr

North Rhine-Westpahlia

Ruhr

Cities: Dortmund, Gelsenkirchen

Football teams:
Borussia Dortmund (BVB) (yellow, black)
FC Schalke 04 (blue, white)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
Westfalenstadion, Dortmund (BVB)
Veltins Arena, Gelsenkirchen (Schalke 04)

Euro 2024 fixtures in Dortmund:
15/06: Italy vs Albania (20:00 BST)
18/06: Türkiye vs Georgia (17:00 BST)
22/06: Türkiye vs Portugal (17:00 BST)
25/06: France vs Poland (17:00 BST)
29/06: Round of 16 – 1A vs 2C (20:00 BST)
10/07: Semi-final (20:00 BST)

Fixtures in Gelsenkirchen:
16/06: Serbia vs England (20:00 BST)
20/06: Spain vs Italy (20:00 BST)
26/06: Georgia vs Portugal (20:00 BST)
30/06: Round of 16 – 1C vs 3D/E/F (17:00 BST)

About:
For more than a century, the coal mines and steel works of the Ruhr were the engine of Germany’s formidable economic power.

They also gave rise to some of the country’s biggest and most successful clubs, and in the post-industrial age, it is footballing giants like Borussia Dortmund and Schalke 04 which have helped the Ruhr retain its sense of community and identity.

Yet as the golden age of coal recedes further into history, the clubs and their cities both face the same dilemma. How do you stay successful while also staying true to your working-class roots?

Stuttgart (Swabia)

Baden-Württemberg

Stuttgart

Cities: Stuttgart

Football teams:
VfB Stuttgart (white, red)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
MHPArena

Euro 2024 fixtures in Stuttgart:
16/06: Slovenia vs Denmark (17:00 BST)
19/06: Germany vs Hungary (17:00 BST)
23/06: Scotland vs Hungary (20:00 BST)
26/06: Ukraine vs Belgium (17:00 BST)
05/07: Quarter-final (17:00 BST)

About:
Ever since Gottlieb Daimler invented the four-wheeled automobile in Stuttgart back in 1886, Germany has been a country of cars, and “Made in Germany” has been the ultimate seal of quality for motorists across the world.

Stuttgart-based companies like Porsche and Mercedes-Benz may export luxury goods around the globe, but their headquarters and their spiritual home is still in Germany, among the straight-laced, spendthrift “Swabians” of the south-west.

Little wonder, then, that the fortunes of five-time champions VfB Stuttgart are still intimately entwined with the car companies next door.

stuttgart

Frankfurt

Hesse

Frankfurt

Cities: Frankfurt

Football teams:
Eintracht Frankfurt (red, black, white)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
Deutsche Bank Park

Euro 2024 fixtures in Frankfurt:
17/06: Belgium vs Slovakia (17:00 BST)
20/06: Denmark vs England (17:00 BST)
23/06: Switzerland vs Germany (20:00 BST)
26/06: Slovakia vs Romania (17:00 BST)
01/07: Round of 16 – 1F vs 3A/B/C (20:00 BST)

About:
When Germany last hosted a major football tournament in 2006, it was hailed as the “summer fairytale”, as the team reached the semi-finals of the World Cup and the public launched into an unprecedented display of national confidence.

Yet even today, the legacy of that tournament is disputed and many Germans still feel queasy about waving the flag. In the country which committed the Holocaust, national pride and identity are always complicated. What does it mean to be German in the 21st century? How does a country deal with the horrors of its past? And is the spectre of political extremism once again on the rise?

In Frankfurt, where German democracy was born and the perpetrators of Auschwitz were later put on trial, those questions come into sharp focus. Especially when there’s a football tournament on.

Hamburg

Hamburg

Hamburg

Cities: Hamburg

Football teams:
Hamburger SV (HSV) (blue, white, black)
FC St. Pauli (brown, white)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
Volksparkstadion (HSV)

Euro 2024 fixtures in Hamburg:
16/06: Poland vs Netherlands (14:00 BST)
19/06: Croatia vs Albania (14:00 BST)
22/06: Georgia vs Czechia (14:00 BST)
26/06: Czechia vs Türkiye (20:00 BST)
05/07: Quarter-final (20:00 BST)

About:
If there is one place where the fight against the far-right takes place on the football terraces, it is Hamburg.

The port city’s on-field rivalry is a clash of two ideological traditions. HSV are one of the grand old statesmen of the German game, and their fanbase is a broad church which unites people from all walks of life. FC St. Pauli, by contrast, are the counter-culture revolutionaries from the red-light district and Europe’s most famous anti-far-right football club.

Establishment or underdog? Compromise and consensus or radicalism and revolution? This is a derby which makes a mockery of the old adage that football and politics don’t mix. In Hamburg, football is always political. But in football, as in real life, there is more than one way to do politics.

Munich

Bavaria

Cities: Munich

Football teams:
FC Bayern Munich (red, white, blue)
TSV 1860 Munich (blue, black)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
Allianz Arena (FC Bayern)

Euro 2024 fixtures in Munich:
14/06: Germany vs Scotland (20:00 BST)
17/06: Romania vs Ukraine (14:00 BST)
20/06: Slovenia vs Serbia (14:00 BST)
25/06: Denmark vs Serbia (20:00 BST)
02/07: Round of 16 – 1E vs 3A/B/C/D (17:00 BST)
09/07: Semi-final (20:00 BST)

About:
“In Bavaria, there is a symbiosis between laptops and lederhosen,” said then German president Roman Herzog back in 1998.

A deeply conservative Catholic region on the one hand, Bavaria is also home to some of Germany’s most successful exports, from Adidas and BMW to Beckenbauer and Bayern Munich.

Here, they say, tradition and modernity go hand in hand. This is where the salt of the earth become global market leaders and where world-class athletes are still made to dress up in traditional garb and sink litres of beer at Oktoberfest.

Laptops and lederhosen is the winning formula which has made Bayern a modern superclub and helped make Germany one of the leading economies in the world. But does it still work?

munich

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin

Cities: Berlin

Football teams:
1. FC Union Berlin (red, white, yellow)
Hertha BSC (blue, white)

Euro 2024 stadiums:
Olympiastadion (Hertha BSC)

Euro 2024 fixtures in Berlin:
15/06: Spain vs Croatia (17:00 BST)
21/06: Poland vs Austria (17:00 BST)
25/06: Netherlands vs Austria (17:00 BST)
29/06: Round of 16 – 2A vs 2B (17:00 BST)
06/07: Quarter-final (20:00 BST)
14/07: Final (20:00 BST)

About:
Berlin football has always been shaped by its history. Destroyed by war and divided for half a century afterwards, the city was always a ramshackle capital, a place of revolution, sub-culture rather than power and grandeur.

It’s two major clubs, Hertha BSC and 1. FC Union, emerged on either side of the Wall, and their respective histories of on-field failure tell mirror-image stories of a divided city.

But now, both Berlin and its football are changing once again. While some fear gentrification and rising prices are eating away at the city’s soul, there is also cause for hope. In football, new powers are rising and new revolutions are taking shape.

Here, perhaps more than anywhere else, the game reflects a country in flux.

berlin

Want to find out more?

Beyond the booze and the bratwurst: what football really tells us about Germany, the UEFA Euro 2024 hosts

9780715655412

Sport/history
Paperback
£12.99
256 pages
ISBN 9780715655412

Played in Germany takes us on a journey through modern Germany’s football heartlands in search of the issues that define it. Through the stadiums, songs and simmering resentments of football, Kit Holden sheds light on a nation so diverse and divided that the only thing that really unites it is the game itself.

‘Immaculately researched, entertainingly written’ Jonathan Liew

‘Vivid detail’ John Kampfner

‘An intimate portrait of Germany’ Archie Rhind-Tutt

The Significant Other

The Significant Other

The Significant Other

When her mother Celia Paget died, The Quality of Love author Ariane Bankes inherited a battered trunk stuffed with letters and diaries belonging to Celia and her twin Mamaine.

This correspondence charted the remarkable lives of the Paget twins and their friends and lovers, including Arthur Koestler, Albert Camus, Sartre and de Beauvoir, and George Orwell.

In this moving piece, Ariane reflects on the close relationship between her mother and Mamaine, the aunt she was never able to meet.

My birth, though eagerly awaited, was not the unqualified success that it might have been. For my mother Celia, I was a longed-for first child conceived at the age of thirty-eight, after a childless first marriage and several passionate but doomed love affairs.

But my arrival drew little of the expected joy; on the contrary, Celia descended into profound despair and was whisked away to the psychiatric wing of a local hospital for several weeks, as I much later discovered.

From these inauspicious beginnings eventually evolved a marvelous closeness between my mother and myself, but not until well into my teenage years.

Celia Paget
Ariane's mother, Celia.

But my arrival drew little of the expected joy; on the contrary, Celia descended into profound despair

She never referred to that period of acute depression, and when I discovered that we had been separated for the first few weeks by her hospitalisation she waived my questions away airily as something of no consequence, firmly maintaining that my birth had been one of the happiest moments of her life.

Slowly the realisation dawned on me, however, that in one important respect – over which I had no control at all – I had indeed been a profound disappointment. However much she longed for a child, my birth could not begin to console her, as she must have vainly hoped it would, for the loss of her identical twin sister Mamaine only a year before.

Mamaine’s defining relationship was nevertheless with my mother Celia, her twin sister and only sibling

Loved by writers of the stature of Arthur Koestler, Albert Camus, and Edmund Wilson, Mamaine’s defining relationship was nevertheless with my mother Celia, her twin sister and only sibling.

Mamaine Paget
Ariane's aunt and Celia's twin sister, Mamaine.

Vivacious, beautiful, and wholly – bewilderingly – identical, the Paget Twins, as they became known, created a sensation from the moment they were unwillingly presented at Court and launched into London Society, a social scene from which they made as speedy an exit as they honorably could, having done the rounds of the Season not once but twice, as ‘Debutantes of the Year’.

Vivacious, beautiful, and wholly – bewilderingly – identical, the Paget Twins, as they became known, created a sensation

They swiftly established themselves in the more congenial if raffish milieu of writers, artists, and intellectuals, who found them captivating.

Apart from their beauty they shared a quickness of wit, a lightness of touch, a keen intellectual appetite, above all a genius for friendship, or ‘friendability’, as my mother called it.

celia and mamaine
The Paget Twins together. Celia (left), Mamaine (right).

Celia often said that the only respect in which they did not reflect one another’s taste was in the men they fell in love with – though inevitably the same men sometimes fell for both.

Their deepest and impregnable bond, however, was with one another. After an extraordinarily close childhood, the twins were separated for long periods of their adult lives, at times living on different sides of the English Channel or the Atlantic, but wrote continually when apart, and crossed continents to be together.

They swiftly established themselves in the more congenial if raffish milieu of writers, artists, and intellectuals, who found them captivating

Their letters are wonderfully vivid and spontaneous, peppered with anecdotes and humour, and assuming a shared understanding that precluded any need for detail.

They enjoyed a total empathy, a rare and enviable harmony, along with all the things they held most precious in life – friends, music, laughter, a passionate love of the countryside, of birds and birdsong, of poetry, of literature.

Mamaine and Koestler
Mamaine and Arthur Koestler married in 1950.

Orphaned at the age of twelve, they also shared a childhood heritage of acute anxiety, expressed in chronic asthma which dogged both their lives. There was a febrile quality to them, and to the intensity with which they lived and loved.

Mamaine was to die tragically young, at the age of thirty-seven, in University College Hospital, the prime cause of her death given as ‘exhaustion’; my mother was somehow to survive this devastating loss and live on into a graceful old age, dying at the age of eighty-six.

Celia often said that the only respect in which they did not reflect one another’s taste was in the men they fell in love with

Yet Celia was always thought to be the weaker of the two, and Mamaine was furiously protective of her; it was not until the breakdown of her marriage to Arthur Koestler that Mamaine’s health began seriously to fail. It was as if the bright flame that had hitherto sustained her now flickered and finally failed.

In many people’s lives there is an absent figure – dead, lost or mislaid – who exerts a powerful fascination – a ‘significant other’ in the dynamics of a family.

celia
Celia.

Mamaine, the captivating and beautiful aunt that I never knew, was that figure in my childhood. I grew up under her spell, and as I grew older, I felt ever more acutely the loss of not having known her.

It was as if the bright flame that had hitherto sustained her now flickered and finally failed

Her letters and diaries speak with such a distinctive voice – warm, vivid, witty – that now, having dwelt on them and with them for the time it has taken me to write this book, I at last feel I do know her, intimately, especially as they echo the timbre and turn of phrase of my mother’s intonation.

They are the voice of someone both brave and frail, but whose spirit was ultimately defeated and who arguably died of a broken heart. Can one die of a broken heart? That is for readers of The Quality of Love to judge.

A rich family archive reveals the incredible lives and loves of two sisters who captivated Europe’s intelligentsia

Biography
Hardback
Available now
ISBN 9780715654989

‘A deftly written memoir’ Literary Review

When her mother Celia Paget died, Ariane Bankes inherited a battered trunk stuffed with letters and diaries belonging to Celia and her twin Mamaine. This correspondence charted the remarkable lives of the Paget sisters and their friends and lovers, including Arthur Koestler, Albert Camus, Sartre and de Beauvoir, and George Orwell.

Out of this rich archive, The Quality of Love weaves the story of these captivating and unusually beautiful identical twins who overcame a meagre education to take 1930s London society by storm and move among Europe’s foremost intellectuals during the twentieth century’s most dramatic decades. Above all, it is a sparkling portrait of the deep connection between two spirited sisters.

Inside Publishing: a day at the printers

Inside Publishing_a day at the printers

Inside Publishing: a day at the printers

Author Paul Cooper and Duckworth’s Publicity Officer, Josie Cassaglia, visited Clays, the printers, to sign copies of Paul’s highly anticipated new book, Fall of Civilizations.

Josephine Cassaglia

By Josie Cassaglia
11 April 2024

The Fall of Civilizations podcast has over 100 million downloads and over 1 million subscribers – plenty of people who would be interested in receiving a special signed edition!

However, setting up those editions is not the simplest thing to do. There are many steps involved in getting signed copies out to the public.

There are many steps involved in getting signed copies out to the public

First it was essential to set up separate ISBNs for the signed and non-signed editions. An ISBN is a unique numeric identifier. Pick up the book you are reading and check out the the number running below the book’s barcode – that is the ISBN unique to that book.

Then we had to decide on how many copies should be signed. After looking at pre-order numbers we decided to sign 1500 copies.

Fall of Civilizations
1500 copies of Fall of Civilizations were put aside to be given a
seperate ISBN and be signed by the author

Now comes the process of getting all 1500 copies physically signed by the author. We got in touch with the printers, Clays, to arrange for Paul and myself to visit their operation in Bungay, Suffolk.

I believe most would be shocked by how many people it takes to get all these books signed and packed away

I believe most would be shocked by how many people it takes to get all these books signed and packed away. I was told by the team at Clays that authors usually take four hours to get through 1500 books…

Fortunately, Paul has a short signature! Still, all four hours were needed to get through the stock. It required a dedicated team: Paul signing and me passing books and two lovely ladies packing up the stock.

Everything runs like a well-oiled machine at the printers as they are used to having authors over to sign books. Sometimes authors can be signing up to 4000 books which can take a several days of signing in a row to get through them all.

Paul Cooper signing a copy of Fall of Civilizations

Everything runs like a well-oiled machine at the printers

Heading to the printers was a great opportunity for me as the Publicity Officer to get some good social media content, as you rarely get to see so many of our books all in one place.

I took some lovely photos with the books (and with Paul, of course) and later shared them on our socials as reminder for people that signed copies are available.

Paul also thought it would be a fun idea to create ten special copies with a hand drawn Carthaginian column and a number, e.g. 1/10. Those who receive one of these unique copies will win a special prize: a bespoke Fall of Civilizations mug and a fetching Duckworth tote bag. Keep your eyes out!

It was a lovely experience, and worth the trip up to Bungay. It was interesting to see all the steps that it takes to get a signed book into customers hands. If you’d like to get your hands on a signed copy, head over to Paul’s Linktree to find out more.

Fall of Civilizations mug
A bespoke Fall of Civilizations mug

Imagining life on other worlds

imagining life on other worlds

Imagining life on other worlds

The Possibility of Life author Jaime Green delves into our changing conception of the cosmos, answering a question we have all asked ourselves when looking up at the night sky: how would life on other worlds look?

I never set out to write a book about evolutionary biology. Nor a book about AI, linguistics, animal intelligence, radioactive waste storage, the origin of life, or the lifespans of civilizations. But in writing a book about aliens I learned that we can’t think about life on other worlds without using all the disciplines of science that help us understand life on this one.

Threaded throughout all of those angles of inquiry is a set of ideas from evolutionary biology: convergence vs contingency.

We can’t think about life on other worlds without using all the disciplines of science

Essentially, this is the fundamental question of imagining life on other worlds. Will it be like life on Earth, or will it be different? Is life on Earth the way it is because that’s the best, most efficient, most effective way for life to be? Or are there innumerable good solutions to the challenges of living, and what we see here is just one possibility among many?

Even just on Earth, this is a live question. As I write in my book:

Unrelated species often evolve the same features independently, because those features are evolutionarily useful. Not every Earth animal with wings or a lensed eye evolved from a common winged or eyed ancestor; these animals stumbled into the same biological solutions to problems like flight and vision. Whales evolved fishlike features but are no more closely related to fish than cows are.

Convergence vs contingency

Yet while convergent evolution is easy to spot, scientists don’t know if it’s the exception or the evolutionary rule. And once we lift our gaze from Earth to the heavens, the scope of the question becomes vast.

Many imaginings of life on other worlds take convergence as their rule, not just for biology but for everything: clothing, language, technology, culture. Most of the familiar Star Trek aliens are hardly more different from humans than different humas are from each other—different haircuts, different attitudes, different languages, but they’re all clearly people, and relate to each other as such.

Horta Star Trek
The silicon-based Horta from Star Trek episode
'The Devil in the Dark'. Credit: Wikipedia

But out on the fringes, in one-off episodes rather than running plots, we do see the weird ones. Aliens made of different molecules, like the silicon-based Horta. Beings of pure energy or thought. Creatures that want to communicate with Earth’s whales instead of its humans, though I suppose that’s just convergence down a different path.

Once we lift our gaze from Earth to the heavens, the scope of the question becomes vast

I found a framework for thinking about these convergent and divergent aliens in China Miéville’s novel, Embassytown, one of my favorite books I encountered doing research for my book.

While it happens to have one of my favorite depictions of faster-than-light travel, for my book’s purposes Embassytown shows wild possibilities of alien language:

china mieville embassytown

Embassytown conjures one such possibility [of nonlinear language], which turns out to be “impossible” for humans in more than one way. The Hosts are an alien race, so-called because their planet, Arieka, hosts a human settlement—the titular town. The Hosts, or Ariekei, have a vaguely insectoid anatomy— scuttling legs, wing-limbs, a coral constellation of eyestalks. But they lack what many other “exot,” or alien, species have in this vast inhabited cosmos: what Miéville calls a shared “conceptual model” for the world.

Essentially, Miéville is proposing that our very consciousness can be convergent with that of other beings—or, dramatically, not. When aliens and humans share a conceptual model, they can pretty easily interact, learn each other’s languages, be coworkers and peers.

There’s a cosmic humility to be found in understanding that we’re just one of life’s infinitely diverse expressions

But in this particular abundantly populated cosmos, there are plenty of other kinds of beings, at varying distances of comprehensibility. The Hosts, it turns out, are sort of on the edge of sharing our conceptual model for the world. They are quite alien aliens, but they and the humans have found ways to reach across the gap.

Reaching across that gap for connection is fundamental to so many alien stories. I write in the book:

There’s a cosmic humility to be found in understanding that we’re just one of life’s infinitely diverse expressions. Even if we can’t imagine truly strange, truly different life, we push against the inherent xenophobia of our imaginations when we try, while what we know pulls us back like gravity.

It’s fundamental to alien stories and fundamental to being human, too.

For fans of Ed Yong and Brian Cox: a dazzling scientific and cultural adventure through our ideas about extraterrestrial life

the possibility of life

Popular science
Paperback
Available now
ISBN 9780715655191

‘An entertaining and instructive rumination on both earthbound existence and the prospect of extraterrestrial encounter’ TLS

One of the most potent questions we ask about the cosmos is: are we alone? From astrobiology to exoplanets in the ‘Goldilocks Zone’, Jaime Green traces our understanding of what and where life in the universe could be, drawing on the long tradition of scientists, writers and artists who have stimulated research by extrapolating worlds.

Bringing together expert interviews, cutting-edge astronomy, philosophical inquiry and pop culture touchstones ranging from A Wrinkle in Time to Star Trek, The Possibility of Life delves into our evolving conception of the cosmos to wonder what we might find… out there.

A World of Ruins

A World of Ruins
A World of Ruins

A World of Ruins

From Roman Britain to Babylon, Carthage to Easter Island, the Mayans to Han China, Fall of Civilizations author Paul Cooper contemplates the rise and fall of history’s greatest empires, and the world of ruins they have left behind.

In 2016, I visited the remains of one of the most opulent palaces built by Saddam Hussein, the deposed dictator of Iraq.

It’s a domineering sight, rising from the top of an artificial hill outside the city of Hillah, on a branch of the Euphrates River — all angular facades and empty windows, almost too bright to look at in the baking Iraqi sun. In the thirteen years since the toppling of Saddam’s government, its once-neat gardens have overgrown and now burst with scrub and weeds collecting scraps of windblown rubbish.

Once you step inside the cavernous space, emptied of all furniture, you can still see the traces of finery, the mantles and doorways in mock-baroque style — but now the plaster is cracked, the walls are scrawled with graffiti, and local children play football in the echoing space. Glass beads from the opulent chandelier in the main hall are scattered on the floor coated with a thin layer of dust.

The remains of Saddam Hussein's palace outside Hillah, Iraq,
built overlooking the ruins of the ancient city of Babylon.

As I walk out to the panoramic balcony of the main bedroom, the plains of the Euphrates Valley stretch out before me, and another ruin fills my view: a lunar landscape the colour of lion’s fur, the sprawling mass of broken walls and ancient architecture that shows where, 2,500 years before, the city of Babylon once stood.

Saddam had hoped that building his palace here would encourage comparisons with the ancient rulers of Mesopotamia. Perhaps he imagined that he would step out onto this balcony and feel inspired by the deeds of those ancient kings of Mesopotamia: Sargon, Esarhaddon, and Nebuchadnezzar. Today, the remains of his palace stand over the ruins of Babylon like a bad joke.

The world is full of such ruins. Sometimes it seems as if there are more of them than anything else

The world is full of such ruins. Sometimes it seems as if there are more of them than anything else. From Rome’s Colosseum to the rusting factories of Northern England and the crumbling suburbs of Detroit; from the pyramids of Giza to the ghost villages wiped off the map in the devastation of the First and Second World Wars; from the vine-wreathed temples of the Maya to the cracked star forts of European colonisers; from the emptied shopfronts of our high streets to the shell-pocked buildings of Bakhmut, Mosul, Aleppo and Gaza.

Each of these ruins means something different, but they have one thing in common: these are all places where one day the future was cancelled.

Han China
The ruins of an ancient watchtower from China's Han Dynasty (202 BC–220 AD)
– in present-day Dunhuang, Gansu province, China.

These are all places where one day the future was cancelled

As countless people have found throughout history, a ruin is a place where the mind can’t stay quiet. As we walk among the fallen walls and crumbling stones of an ancient temple, a palace or fortress, we can’t help but imagine the world as it once was. Our minds fill in the gaps in the stones to make them whole.

A ruin is a paradox. Each one shows us the fearsome power of time, while simultaneously standing in defiance of it.

Being such powerful imaginary spaces, ruins have always spurred human creativity. From the dawn of history, people have written about the poignant and difficult feelings they provoke: that peculiar mix of awe and melancholy.

Ta Prohm Temple, Angkor
Ta Prohm Temple, Angkor, Cambodia – findings shows that the site was home to
more than 12,500 people of the Khmer Empire (802–1431 AD)

One Babylonian world map from the sixth century BCE, inscribed on a clay tablet, shows how ancient people conceived of the earth: divided into quadrants, it includes lands of serpents, dragons and scorpion-men, the far northern regions ‘where the sun is never seen’ and a great body of water they called ‘the Bitter River’, which is today what we call the Mediterranean Sea.

A ruin is a place where the mind can’t stay quiet

The map also describes ‘ruined cities… watched over by… the ruined gods’. The ruins of the past and countless imagined futures remind us that history is not a linear progression from worse to better, from ignorance to knowledge, from war to peace. It has always been characterized by periods of flourishing, periods of fallowness, and periods of wanton destruction.

When I first began telling these stories in the form of an audio podcast at the start of 2019, I expected to reach an audience of perhaps a few thousand like-minded listeners — but at the time of writing, as the series enters its fourth year, it has been listened to more than 100 million times by listeners all around the world.

The Dogon village of Songo in the border region of Bandiagara, Mali – once part of
the West African Songhai Empire (1460–1591 AD)

Every ruin in this book should thus be understood as a warning and a challenge

While no one knows what the future will hold, the coming century will present perhaps the greatest series of challenges that humanity has ever faced, and the actions required to correct our current course are significant.

Every ruin in this book should thus be understood as a warning and a challenge: take nothing for granted, resist those who have mortgaged our future for their greed, and fight with every inch of your being to build a better world.

This article was adapted from the introductory chapter of Fall of Civilizations.

Landmark world history from the creator of the Top Ten podcast Fall of Civilizations

fall of civilizations

History
Hardback
25 April 2024
ISBN 9780715655009

Based on the hit podcast with over 100 million downloads, Fall of Civilizations brilliantly explores how a range of ancient societies rose to power and sophistication, and how they tipped over into collapse.

Across the centuries, we journey from the great empires of Mesopotamia to those of Khmer and Vijayanagara in Asia and Songhai in West Africa; from Byzantium to the Maya, Inca and Aztec empires of the Americas; from Roman Britain to Rapa Nui. With meticulous research, breathtaking insight and dazzling, empathic storytelling, historian and novelist Paul Cooper evokes the majesty and jeopardy of these civilizations, and asks what it might have felt like for a person alive at the time as they witnessed the end of their world.

Use code CIVS25 at checkout for 25% off

Eliza Mace: Detective with a difference

Eliza Mace Detective with a difference

Eliza Mace: Detective with a difference

Authors Sarah Burton and Jem Poster discuss the inspirations for their new novel Eliza Mace, and how it’s more than just a detective story.

No doubt there are writers who sit down with the primary intention of producing a work of detective fiction, but that’s not how Eliza Mace came about.

Yes, the novel’s titular heroine has a mystery to solve and, with the help of the local police constable, she succeeds in tracking down the perpetrator of a serious crime and bringing him to justice; but the novel’s roots lie predominantly in our reading of other genres, most obviously literary fiction (a large and diverse category) and historical fiction.

We set out to write a stylish, intriguing and carefully plotted book; its status as a work of detective fiction wasn’t uppermost in our minds when we began to write it.

A work of detective fiction wasn’t uppermost in our minds when we began to write it

So what were its beginnings? A story grows, as J. R. R. Tolkien has pointed out, from the fertile compost of experience laid down in a writer’s mind over many years, but if we were pressed to identify one particular moment it would be the summer of 2016, in a country house in Ireland, when the building’s history was suddenly brought alive for us by a fragment of information volunteered by our guide: the back stairs of the house, she said, were used not just by the servants but also by the owners’ children.

What, we wondered, might the younger members of a wealthy family overhear in that liminal space between two worlds?

That wasn’t, as it turned out, exactly what Eliza Mace would be about, but what survived of that early insight was the idea of a young character, in a historically distant setting, trying to make sense of an adult world whose rules seem pointlessly restrictive.

Out of our discussions came Eliza, a sixteen-year-old on the cusp of womanhood, with a mind of her own and the strength of character to challenge received opinions.

Out of our discussions came Eliza... with a mind of her own and the strength of character to challenge received opinions

From very early on we knew that Eliza would be the linchpin holding the story together, and in order for this to happen she had to be a solidly drawn character, complex and credible.

It takes time to build up a character of this kind, but we knew it was time worth spending. There’s a widespread fallacy that the contemporary reader needs to be plunged immediately into fast-paced action, but in fact most readers understand perfectly well that this is only one of a number of possible ways into a story.

For many readers it may be just as engaging to be introduced to compelling characters and tricky family dynamics, or to be given a vivid sense of the setting and atmosphere (in the case of Eliza Mace, broodingly Gothic) that will stand as background to the story’s action.

There’s a widespread fallacy that the contemporary reader needs to be plunged immediately into fast-paced action

These are, of course, the foundations of most good writing, in any genre, and without them no plot, however ingenious or pacy, is likely to touch the deeper levels of the reader’s imagination.

So while it’s certainly true that Eliza Mace is a detective story, it’s fair to add that that’s not all it is. Beyond the mystery and its solution, the novel traces a young woman’s interior journey as the world she knows collapses around her, leaving her to come to terms with her losses and, at the same time, to map out a new future for herself.

And that’s not the half of it…

A twisty Victorian mystery featuring quick-witted detective Eliza Mace

Historical fiction
Hardback
Available now
ISBN 9780715655122

‘A detective you’ll love and a mystery you’ll want to solve’ – Louise Davidson, author of The Fortunes of Olivia Richmond

Stuck in a crumbling manor house in the Welsh borders in the 1870s, she is thwarted by powers that conspire to protect, control and deceive her. But when her father goes missing in mysterious circumstances, Eliza’s determination to uncover the truth is unstoppable.

But solving the case is no easy task. Her father has run up debts in town and beyond, and there are many who bear him a grudge. As she searches for evidence, Eliza exposes dark secrets that threaten to tear her world apart…

How to be Good in a World Gone Bad

How to be Good in a World Gone Bad

How to be Good in a World Gone Bad

In a hyperglobalised world hurtling towards environmental destruction, how do we determine the right actions? Philosopher Travis Rieder outlines a new ethics for the age of humanmade catastrophe: how to be good in a world gone bad.

The modern world is morally exhausting. I mean: perhaps people have felt moral exhaustion in many, or even most, eras. But modern life has a property that I think is especially overwhelming, which is that it presents us with massive, structural harms and injustices, which our common, everyday actions contribute to.

The paradigm case here is climate change. Virtually everything we do implicates us in the harms of climate change, as just going about our lives requires emitting greenhouse gases that are warming the planet. This can thus lead to a sense of guilt and moral responsibility: we shouldn’t actually take that flight in order to go on vacation, as doing so contributes to climate change.

The modern world is morally exhausting

Of course, going very far down that rabbit hole gets complicated very quickly. Are you then also required to go vegan, since animal-sourced foods are more carbon-intensive? Should you drive less, even if that means changing jobs? Buy an electric car, install solar panels, and invest in other green technology, even if you can’t really afford it?

As the stress of trying not to contribute to climate change adds up, some people feel the draw of just throwing up their hands and saying, “Not my problem.” After all, no one person can solve (or will cause, for that matter) climate change, so as the responsibility adds up, it starts to feel unfair. And maybe it even feels a bit precious to worry so much about keeping one’s hands clean. The world will burn whether I fly to see my parents or not. Does it really make me a better person to miss my visit so that I can feel righteous amidst the flames?

Virtually everything we do implicates us in the harms of climate change... This can thus lead to a sense of guilt and moral responsibility

Of course, going very far down that rabbit hole gets complicated very quickly. Are you then also required to go vegan, since animal-sourced foods are more carbon-intensive? Should you drive less, even if that means changing jobs? Buy an electric car, install solar panels, and invest in other green technology, even if you can’t really afford it?

This tug-of-war between the pull of an ethic of purity and a resignation to a kind of nihilism makes up the particularly modern moral exhaustion of our world. What is each of us to do? Does it matter what we do?

What is each of us to do? Does it matter what we do?

In my new book, Catastrophe Ethics, I offer a set of tools for living a decent, ethically justifiable life in the face of such overwhelming problems. The first step I suggest is to recognize that although you are not morally required to do any particular thing, it is morally good to do many different things. Different courses of action are recommended, even if none of them are obligatory.

The move here is to shy away from the purists who try to convince you that the only ethical life is one of isolation and asceticism, since any contribution to the complex global society will implicate you in a myriad array of catastrophes. Given the infinitesimally small contribution any one of us makes to a problem that arises from the actions of billions of people, it’s unreasonable and unhelpful to hold that any one of us is obligated to withdraw participation.

Not everything bad is prohibited, and not everything good is required

But against the nihilist, I counter that this does not imply that nothing one does matters at all. Not everything bad is prohibited, and not everything good is required. This gives rise to what I call the participatory component of ethics, which asks: what good and bad structures, systems, and outcomes will you be a participant in? Just as it’s bad to be a part of catastrophe, it’s good to be a part of some collective solution or a movement for justice.

Sitting squarely between the pull of purity and the threat of nihilism, then, is an ethic of conscientiousness. We must come to terms with the fact that most of what we do and how we live will implicate us in various problems and solutions, and so our moral job is to design a life that is justifiable in terms of how we triage our efforts.

Our moral job is to design a life that is justifiable in terms of how we triage our efforts

This process will not make the ethics of modern living easy. But it will, I hope, allow us to feel more confident that we are responding to the various moral considerations in a way that is not simply exhausting. And by responding to the threat of nihilism, I hope that it can help each of us to find meaning in the small choices we make.

An urgent, thought-provoking answer to the question we are all secretly asking: individually, how should we act in the climate emergency?

Ethics and moral philosophy
Hardback
Available now
ISBN 9780715655320

‘A must-read for anyone who cares about doing good in the world’ – Anna Lembke, New York Times-bestselling author of Dopamine Nation

Philosopher Travis Rieder outlines a new ethics for the age of humanmade catastrophe: how do we determine the right actions? Do our individual efforts to avoid plastic or air travel, or to drive electric, make any real difference?

From the small stuff like single-use plastics to major decisions like whether to have children, Rieder defines exactly how we can change our thinking and lead a decent, meaningful life in a scary, complicated world.

What to read for International Women’s Day 2024

international womens day 2024
international womens day

What to read for International Women's Day 2024

Celebrated annually on 8th March, International Women’s Day is an opportunity to reflect on how far women’s rights have come and how far we still need to go. We’ve put together a list of fantastic books about and by inspiring women. Whether you’re looking for a nonfiction book about remarkable trailblazers, or novels with compelling heroines, we have the one for you.

Tiger Woman: A Wild Life
Betty May

From her birth in one of the poorest districts in London, to the bohemian society she mingled with and modelled for, to secret ceremonies with High Priests and Mystics, Tiger Woman: A Wild Life is the thrilling account of the life of Betty May, told in her own words.

Charming and vivid in her descriptions of love affairs, gang warfare and the taste of sweet champagne, Betty May is a force to be reckoned with. Not all of her stories in the book are grand adventures: she recounts vicious fights and her drug addiction in tender, moving descriptions.

A compelling memoir written by a complex woman, Tiger Woman is an insight into the inter-war years from the muse’s perspective. Pour yourself a glass of champagne and sit down with Betty May this International Women’s Day.

Hotbed
Joanna Scutts

This exploration of early twentieth-century feminists by Joanna Scotts is an essential read this International Women’s Day.

Hotbed transports readers to 1912 New York City, unveiling the clandestine meetings of ‘Heterodoxy’, a pioneering social club of women activists. With fervent dedication they championed suffrage, labour rights, equal marriage and free love.

It encapsulates the audacious spirit that transformed feminist ideals into reforms. Through its pages, readers witness the convergence of women from all sections of society.

As International Women’s Day approaches, this dazzling, never-told-before history stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of those who dared to challenge norms.

Black Butterflies
Priscilla Morris

Shortlisted for the Women’s Prize, Black Butterflies is the perfect example of one women’s resilience in the face of extreme turmoil.

Sarajevo. Spring 1992. Zora faces a city under siege. As the assault deepens and everything that she loves is laid to waste, Zora is forced to rebuild herself, over and over. Her story is one of darkness, hope, and unexpected beauty.

This exquisitely crafted debut by Priscilla Morris will move and inspire you this International Women’s Day.

The Soviet Sisters
Anika Scott

Cold War thrillers are often associated with male spies in long trench coats, smoking in alcoves while the rain pours. The Soviet Sisters by Anika Scott challenges that stereotype.

Told from the perspective of two sisters, Marya and Vera, in post-war Berlin, The Soviet Sisters is an atmospheric exploration of how sisterhood can unravel in the face of divided loyalties and differing politics.

When Marya, an interpreter liaising with the British, gets caught in secret agent Vera’s web of deceit, she must make desperate choices to survive – and to protect those she loves.

Gripping from start to finish, if you’re looking for a historical fiction novel with morally complex female characters and a scintillating plot, then look no further.

‘The blade must woo the wood’: Jenny Uglow reflects on the work of David Esterly​

‘The blade must woo the wood’- Jenny Uglow reflects on the work of David Esterly
lost carving david esterly

‘The blade must woo the wood’: Jenny Uglow reflects on the work of David Esterly

To meet the resurgent interest in wood arts and craft, this month, we republished The Lost Carving, an inspiring reflection on creativity and mastery by world-renowned artisan David Esterly.

Jenny Uglow, highly acclaimed critic, biographer and author of numerous prize-winning nonfiction books – including The Lunar Men and Nature’s Engraver – contributed a new and rousing introduction to this beautifully repackaged memoir.

By Jenny Uglow

From the first page, as David Esterly whisks us into his studio, this is a magical book, transporting us to a woodcarver’s world. We breathe in the nutty scent of limewood shavings and see the tools laid out on the bench, 130 chisels and gouges each with their own role, their own history. He reaches instinctively for the one he needs. With a ‘little gunslinger’s twirl’, he floats the handle into his palm, poised to shape the petal of an iris, the curve of a violin, the swell of a peach.

david esterly woodcarving
David Esterly

Esterly, who died in 2019, was a master of his art but also a captivating storyteller. Three narratives run through this memoir, their turns and returns appearing as effortless as his intricate carvings.

In the foreground, as the seasons change around his studio in the foothills of the Adirondacks, he works on different carvings and writes this book. In the background runs the story of his first sighting of Grinling Gibbons’s miraculous swags of fruit and flowers in St James’s Church, Piccadilly, many years before:

‘It seemed one of the wonders of the world. The traffic noise on Piccadilly went silent, and I was at the still center of the universe.’

It is a bodily apprehension, a tingling in the palms of the hands, beyond words.

Abandoning Cambridge and academia, he decides to write about Gibbons. But that is not enough. He must learn to carve. We follow his struggles to emulate Gibbons’s lost art, living deep in the Sussex countryside. Beside him, his wife Marietta restores old porcelain, another patient recoverer of past skills.

grinling gibbons
Sir John Medina, Grinling Gibbons, late 1680s. © Trustees of the British Museum

Hovering behind his labours is Gibbons himself, the young Dutch carver spotted by John Evelyn through a Deptford window in 1671.

We think of wood as brown, but Gibbons worked in the European tradition, using limewood, ‘the palest wood in the forest’, a contrast to English oak, so that his decorative swags ‘floated ghostlike over the darker […] paneling’.

Over the years – while becoming known as a Gibbons expert – Esterly finds it increasingly hard to shake off the ghostly presence that whispers on his shoulder and jeers at his efforts.

His release comes in the central story, the core of the book. On Easter Monday, 31 March 1986, he hears on the radio that the upper floor of Hampton Court Palace is on fire.

Flames funnel through the King’s Apartments, built by Christopher Wren for William III, and although paintings are hustled to safety, Gibbons’s elaborate overmantels and drops blacken in the smoke.

After frustrating arguments as to whether only a British carver should be appointed, Esterly is called in. His task is to provide the brief for the restoration and to recreate the only carving lost, it seems, beyond hope: a complex seven-foot-long drop framing a door, now burnt to a shapeless lump.

fire at hampton court palace
Fire at Hampton Court Palace, March 1986

The start is unpromising. Fingering a delicate stem, he hears a quiet, sickening snap – a small break, easily glued, but the first of many hard lessons from the wood.

Once the carvings are off the wall, he studies them carefully, noting the acute angles, the careful layering, the dangerous thinness. He sees too that copying is not enough. An accurate copy of a leaf turns out oddly lifeless: only the subtle exaggeration that ‘translates’ it into art can capture the essence of the living form.

the lost carving
The lost carving. Left-hand drop, west door, King’s Drawing Room, Hampton Court Palace. Glass plate photograph, 1939. Reproduced by permission of English Heritage. NMR

In Grinling Gibbons and the Art of Carving, written to accompany the exhibition that he curated at the V&A in 1998, Esterly quotes Horace Walpole’s assertion that no one before Gibbons ‘gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of flowers, and chained together the various productions of the elements with a free disorder natural to each species’.

That airy quality also describes his own curling and entwining scenes, translating his art into words. But at every stage you feel, too, a driving force, an incisive energy, clear and sharp as the woodsman’s axe: he reminds us that the grace of a limewood swag begins in violence, the ruthless ‘killing and dismemberment’ of a fine tree.

An inner drive powers him, whether carving at his bench, walking on the Sussex downs, skiing under a full moon, kayaking against a fast-flowing current. Rivers flow through the book, from the still Cam and the wide Thames to the river outside his studio in upstate New York, as it surges in release from the ice.

david esterly handcarving

As readers, we are given a rare insight into the tension between momentum and control that informs the carver’s craft from the moment he picks up his tool.

An assault will not work; ‘The blade must woo the wood.’ One hand curves round the handle, pushing it forward, another rests on the blade, restraining the drive, while the heel of the rear hand rests on the wood, grounding it, keeping it stable. The whole body is involved, even in the bend of the shoulders and twist of the torso. This dynamic balance expresses a deeper opposition of desire and restraint: as Yeats writes, out of the quarrel with ourselves we make poetry.

One pleasure of this memoir is its exploration of creativity, carrying us to the point when the carver no longer imposes the design but becomes a servant of the carving itself. ‘You work in the churn of the moment, and the forms seem to determine their own shape. You think with your hands. The carving thinks with your hands.’

cravat grinling gibbons
Grinling Gibbons, cravat carved in limewood, date unknown. Owned and once worn by Horace Walpole. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Recognising that this sense of surrender and oneness is shared by many makers – potters and poets, carvers and composers – Esterly turns to the writers and thinkers he admires. He quotes Yeats’s question, ‘How can we know the dancer from the dance?’

He thinks of the Neoplatonic philosopher Plotinus, whose urge to abandon the body and progress to ‘a mode of perception in which seeing and being and creating are one’, is, paradoxically, expressed in a wealth of sensual imagery. He evokes the feelings of ‘oceanic oneness’ in William Blake and Thomas Traherne: ‘You never enjoy the world aright,’ Traherne says, ‘till the sea itself floweth in your veins.’

musical Carving
D. E., musical trophy, limewood, 2004.

At moments of high intensity, Esterly tells us, time evaporates. But one of my favourite moments when time folds back upon itself is not intense at all. Esterly and his fellow carver Trevor Ellis are sighing over the never-ending cutting of forget-me-nots.

Poring over the little hole in the middle of the flower with a torch, Esterly sees marks suggesting that the original carver had worked in precisely the same way as they were doing. Then, ‘Look at this,’ says Trevor, producing a tiny plug of wood, which had lain at the bottom of one hole since the seventeenth century.

It is exactly like those they produce themselves. ‘Forget-me-not,’ it says.

This extract is taken from The Lost Carving: A Journey to the Heart of Making (Duckworth, 2024) by David Esterly, introduced by Jenny Uglow.

An inspiring reflection on creativity and mastery by a world-renowned artisan

lost carving cover

Memoir
Paperback
Available now
ISBN 9780715655245

‘A wonderful, riveting book’ – Edmund de Wall

The highly acclaimed memoir of a renowned artisan with a new introduction by Jenny Uglow, The Lost Carving reveals the inspirational secrets of wood and craft. On a chance visit to St James’s church, Piccadilly, David Esterly was awestruck by the delicate beauty and ambition of master carver Grinling Gibbons’s limewood decorations. The encounter changed the course of Esterly’s life as he devoted himself to these lost techniques.

By 1986, when a fire at Hampton Court Palace destroyed much of Gibbons’s masterpiece, Esterly was the only candidate to restore his idol’s work to glory, though the experience forced him to question his abilities and delve deeply into the subtle skills of making.

Losing my mother tongue

Losing a mother tongue

Losing my mother tongue

In 1979, aged seven, Monica Macias was sent from West Africa to the unfamiliar surroundings of North Korea by her father, the President of Equatorial Guinea, to be educated under the guardianship of his ally, Kim Il Sung.

Within months, her father was executed in a military coup; her mother became unreachable. Monica would have to make her life in Pyongyang.

In this moving and open piece, the author of Black Girl from Pyongyang reflects on her experiences with pain, strength, and mother-daughter relationships.

Monica Macias

By Monica Macias
18 January 2024

“Mother was comfort. Mother was home. A girl who lost her mother was suddenly a tiny boat on an angry ocean. Some boats eventually floated ashore. And some boats, like me, seemed to float farther and farther from land.”

This is a quote from Ruta Sepetys’ novel Salt to the Sea. For me, it evokes my own mother, and how I felt when she left me and my two siblings in North Korea in the wake of my father’s death. Today, I want to talk about pain, strength, and mother-daughter relationships.

My name is Monica Macias. I was born in Equatorial Guinea in West Africa as the youngest daughter of Francisco Macias, the first legitimate president of independent Guinea after it gained freedom from its Spanish colonisers in the late 1960s.

But from the age of seven, I was raised in Pyongyang by the former president of North Korea, Kim Il Sung. Ever since I can remember, my life has been defined by these larger-than-life figures and the absence of my mother all those years ago.

During Guinea’s post-independence period, my father was cautious to align our country with former colonial powers. When communist countries came to us with the promise to invest in our country, my father saw an opportunity to help rebuild Guinea and create new global allies in the process.

My siblings, Maribel and Fran, and I were sent to study in North Korea. At the time North Korea had a rapidly developing economy and a flourishing education system.

My mother accompanied us to help us settle into our new lives and, taking advantage of North Korea’s well-developed health provision, to get a much-needed surgery. We were given a spacious apartment and quickly adopted the rhythms of our fellow Pyongyang citizens. While my mother recovered from surgery, we spent weekends at parks and amusements alongside all the other families.

Monica Macias with her siblings Maribel and Fran at Mankyongtae Revolutionary Boarding School
Monica Macias with her siblings Maribel and Fran at Mankyongtae Revolutionary Boarding School

The streets thronged with people eating jellyfish barbecue and kimbap followed by fresh watermelon, apples and pears. The scent of the barbecuing beef made my mouth water. The adults drank Soju (a potato-based alcohol similar to vodka) and Taedonggang, North Korea’s most popular beer. When the alcohol took effect, they started playing guitars, singing songs and dancing.

With the four of us together, I was happy. Then quite suddenly, my mother announced, without explanation, that she had to return to Equatorial Guinea. Just like that she disappeared from life. My boat was cast adrift.

Years later, I would learn that not long after we moved to Pyongyang there was a coup d’état in Guinea, launched by my cousin, Teodoro Obiang. He remains in power to this day. My father was captured by militant forces and in a kangaroo court was tried and murdered by the newly formed government.

At the time, my eldest brother Teo was studying in Cuba. In the wake of the uprising in Guinea, he was deported home. With no one else there to serve as his protector, my mother was compelled to return to Guinea and the perils that awaited them both.

Monica on a highway in uniform.
Monica on a highway in uniform.

But as a child, I knew nothing of these events and every night I spent hours awake in bed, drowning in a sea of tears. I yearned for my mother. In my anguish I refused to eat. For a month nothing passed my lips but water. My weight plummeted and I was taken to hospital, where I was put on a glucose drip that kept me alive.

A month later, when I had physically recovered, I was sent back to boarding school. My classmates were relieved to see me return. Some of the barriers between us dissolved. Special food that I liked was couriered from a hotel in central Pyongyang to ensure that I ate.

From that point on, my attitude changed. I hardened from a natural ebullience into overt rebellion against authority and hierarchy. The loneliness, the frustration and the resignation drove me to reject everything related to my mother – I wanted nothing to do with memories of my homeland.

In contrast to the Korean-born children of my age, I was too tall, my skin was too dark, my hair was too curly. They touched my African hair and gave me the nickname ‘Sheep Wife’ based on a popular cartoon character.

Having abandoned my roots, I wanted desperately to fit in – to be Korean. I refused to speak Spanish, the colonial language of Equatorial Guinea and still its main official language. Even when I was assigned a Spanish teacher, I made his life impossible. He laboured on for three months before resigning, reporting that I was capable but had no desire to reconnect with Guinea.

Monica with her platoon and the school director O Jea-won.
Monica with her platoon and the school director O Jea-won.

Before I knew it, three years had passed. One day while we were messing about on the riverbank, my sister, Maribel, came running up to me and told me to dress nicely as we were going to the airport. ‘Mum’s coming. We have to meet her,’ she said.

Since my mother had left us, she had become vaguer and vaguer in my memory. She felt less like a physical person and more like an ethereal being who did not actually exist. I told Maribel that I couldn’t remember our mother. My sister pulled out a photo from her purse and handed it to me. It showed the two of them together. For the first time in years, I stared at my mother’s face trying to recall her.

That afternoon, when we met our mother at Sunan airport, all I could think was, ‘She’s a very pretty lady.’Maribel and Fran swarmed to her side, hugging her tightly and chattering excitedly in Spanish.

Monica (front, left) with mother (front, centre), Maribel (back, left), Fran (front, right) and his classmate.
Monica (front, left) with her mother (front, centre), sister Maribel (back, left), brother Fran (front, right) and his classmate.

But I wasn’t moved to join them. I stood apart with a blank expression. My eyes met my mother’s, then she flung her arms wide and gestured for me to come to her. I approached her hesitantly, before she clutched me to her bosom and cried. Then she started speaking to me, but I couldn’t understand anything she was saying. It had been too long since I had spoken Spanish and I’d forgotten it all.

I kept mumbling in Korean, ‘Mum, I can’t speak Spanish. I don’t know what you’re saying,’ but she couldn’t understand me either. Her smile faded and she muttered something sadly. I asked Maribel to interpret. ‘She thinks you’re not speaking Spanish because you resent her,’ she said.

‘That’s not true!’ I cried. ‘Maribel, you know that’s not true!’ I felt misjudged and disheartened at the same time.

During the time I spent with our mother, I could not hold a proper conversation with her without one of my siblings acting as the interpreter. When the two of us happened to be alone, we had to spend that time in uncomfortable silence.

Monica with classmates in a blossom garden.
Monica with classmates in a blossom garden.

We all know the term ‘mother tongue’ but this expression doesn’t speak to me. I didn’t know my mother’s language, and my mother didn’t know mine. Mother and daughter were finally reunited but might as well have been oceans apart. The sadness in my heart only grew deeper.

After a few months, Mum returned to Guinea. On the day she departed, I could only offer her a silent embrace.

I remained in Pyongyang until I completed my university studies.

At university, I met students from across the Globe and hearing about their experiences, I began to realise there was more to the world than I had been taught. I had grown up in a sheltered society with little exchange with the outside world. Now I wanted to discover it for myself and who I was within it. Was there someplace where a black girl with a Korean soul belonged? My curiosity led me to travel and meet people from different cultures and to better understand how they lived.

On the steps of the Capitol, Washington DC.
On the steps of the Capitol, Washington DC.

Learning about different societies and considering how politics had defined so much of my life, I became interested in international relations. After considering various options, I decided to take an MA in International Relations in London because it was relatively close to Madrid, where I still have friends and family, and because it is home to some of the best universities in the world.

Growing up in Pyongyang, I had always been noticeably different, despite my efforts to blend in. But in London, I felt marvellously inconspicuous. Still, through all those mostly happy early years in London, studying and working and making a new place for myself, there was a nagging unresolved sadness and sense of longing that was to do with my mother.

It would take many years before I felt ready to sit down with my mother to talk through those lost years and attempt to unpack our shared trauma.

Outside the Houses of Parliament, London.
Outside the Houses of Parliament, London.

As you can imagine, when we finally broached the subject, we were entering uncharted waters. She accused me of hating her for abandoning me. She had been faced with an impossible decision, leaving some of her children behind to save another one in danger. How could I understand? I wasn’t a mother.

Looking back, I understood that my mother had been through a physically and psychologically painful experience. She had lost her husband, her eldest child was in peril, she was penniless. On returning to Guinea, she suffered physical abuse – even having her leg broken – at the hands of members of my father’s family who had never accepted her.

As difficult as it had been to come to terms with her decision, I had made my peace with history. But still, I wanted her to see things from my perspective. I insisted that she must understand what I had suffered because of her choices. The night ended with me storming away. She begged me to stay but I left anyway, slamming the door on my way out.

A few weeks later, back in London, I received a message from my niece in the middle of the day. ‘Aunty, Grandma is not OK’ it read. I replied ‘You know Grandma sometimes exaggerates, looking for attention. Just hug her and she will calm down.’ As it turned out, my mother had complained to the neighbours of feeling unwell. When they went over to check on her she wouldn’t answer the door. The police found her on the floor unconscious. She would remain in a coma for six weeks before passing away.

The wake of Monica's mother in Mongomo, Equatorial Guinea.
The wake of Monica's mother in Mongomo, Equatorial Guinea.

At her funeral back in Guinea, I was flooded with contradictory emotions – too many to hope to process. We had had a very complicated relationship. We both wanted love and reconciliation, but our cultures, generational difference and personalities were like oil and water.

Unlike the solemn processions I was raised with in North Korea, Guinean funerals feature singing and dancing. The idea is to let the late person’s spirit go with joy and good wishes.

But it was difficult to celebrate her life with everyone. An image of the last time I saw her, with tears in her eyes, was burned into my memory. Our last conversation had been an argument and I had never told her how much I loved her.

Traditional funeral rites are held for Monica's mother in Malabo, Equatorial Guinea.
Traditional funeral rites are held for Monica's mother in Malabo, Equatorial Guinea.

Through all those weeks, I had difficulty concentrating and suffered from insomnia. Maribel – who in many ways had become a second mother to me over the years – persuaded me to see a counsellor. She said counselling could help me to address my problems at their root: the trauma I had experienced as a young girl and that I still carried, as well as the painful relationship with my mother and the guilt I felt over our last heated exchange.

I always thought that I was strong enough to overcome all the difficulties that life had presented me with; that life itself was the best teacher and I, the star pupil. For me, the best therapy was sharing my experiences with the friends who knew me best, not an unknown psychotherapist.

I cried the entire first session. I had never cried like that before; tears fell like a waterfall, leaving me short of breath. It was as if I had a wellspring inside of me and the counsellor had turned on the tap.

Monica with Maribel and saleswomen at a department store.
Monica with Maribel and saleswomen at a department store.

In only a few sessions, I started to feel better. It was not that all my pain disappeared with counselling; that pain will be with me forever. Instead, what I learned was to understand, to be aware of the pain and the emotion, and not to ignore them.

I also learned to forgive and make peace. Anger is not a good feeling to carry, especially when we cannot know when the person at whom the anger is directed will depart this life.

Therapy helped me to appreciate how not dealing with my feelings and traumas only negatively impacted the quality of my life. Years of abandonment and military school had convinced me to control my feelings. I still struggle with recognising that we are all vulnerable in the face of life’s difficulties.

In New York City.
In New York City.

If there is any one lesson to be learned from my story it’s that we may be able to draw on deep wells of strength and resilience to meet life’s many challenges, but what is certain is that we cannot face them alone.

We need help to come ashore. I wish I had spent more time working through my feelings and reconciling with my mother before she passed, and I will always regret how much of our lives were spent apart.

When I think of her now, I see a woman who navigated so many storms and still she persevered with a strong sense of character and love in her heart. She wasn’t always perfect, but I’m inspired to be a little more like her every day.

If you still have your mother or another parent or relative whom you cherish, can I suggest that you do one thing: call that person, and tell them that you love them.

This article is an adaptation of a speech Monica gave at the Women of the World Festival, 10 – 12 March 2023 at the Southbank Centre.

The extraordinary story of a West African girl’s upbringing in North Korea

Black Girl from Pyongyang

Memoir
Paperback
Available now
ISBN 9780715655177

‘A fascinating account of a woman’s quest for autonomy’ – Lily Dunn, author of Sins of My Father

In 1979, seven-year-old Monica was sent by her father, the president of Equatorial Guinea, to be educated under the guardianship of his ally, Kim Il Sung. Within months, her father was executed in a military coup. Monica would have to make her life in Pyongyang. Reaching adulthood, she spent time in Madrid, Malabo, then New York, Seoul and London, in search of her roots.

Optimistic yet unflinching, Monica’s astonishing story challenges us to see the world through different eyes.

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